Once the seat of a kingdom, Ratlam is today a town in western Madhya Pradesh, a has-been commercial hub known for sarees, gold and Ratlami sev. Only the sev is truly unique to the town--its recipe was developed here over the last two centuries. Its history was revealed when Ratlami Sev was granted a geographical indication (GI) status in 2014. In Ratlam, the sev occupies a unique place. It is a snack, a side-dish, a garnish and an ingredient. The local breakfast favourite, poha, is served with sev, preferably of two kinds. Curries are prepared with sev. Even if the food does not normally require sev, a handful is served on the side. For all its popularity in the district, Ratlami sev has been left out of the nationwide growth in packaged snacks, from potato chips to Haldiram’s-style Indian savouries. “Ratlami sev is famous the world over because our customers travelled there.